Archipelago of Natural Wonders
by Lisa Khajavi
One of the many advantages of Costa Rica being a small country is the ability to visit Nicaragua and Panama very easily. One of my favorite getaways is to Bocas del Toro, Panama. It is a beautiful, one hour flight from San Jose during which you see many sights; including the recently awakened Turrialba Volcano, coffee plantations, pineapple fields, mangroves and many stunning features. Not long after passing the winding waterways of the border town of Changuinola, you will descend into the town of Bocas del Toro with its cheerfully painted Caribbean-style structures perched on the water. This mellow town is on the island of Colon, which is part of a stunning archipelago made up of 9 islands, 52 keys and some 200 tiny islets. Welcome to Bocas del Toro!
History of Bocas del Toro
The history of Bocas del Toro is very interesting, and is reflected in a current eclectic mix of inhabitants. Some of the original locals were the Bakota, Guyami, Bri-Bri and Ngobe indians. You will still see elegant “cayucos”, which are kayaks carved from a single tree-trunk used to this day to fish and get about. There are many local crafts available, as well as colorful molas done by the Kuna women from San Blaas and the finely woven baskets made in the Embera or Wounan tradition.
On his fourth and last voyage, Christopher Columbus arrived to the archipelago on October 6, 1502. His storm-beaten ships took advantage of the calm waters, and consequently these islands he discovered became supply and repair stations for shipping. No hurricanes reach the shores here, so it is a safe haven for boats from rough seas. The largest main island of Colon is named after Columbus, as the famous explorer’s name is actually Cristobal Colon in Spanish. Bastimentos, another key island here, translates to “supplies” and another neighboring island, Carenero means “careening” which refers to a ship tilting to the side. A couple of stories claim Columbus named the archipelago Bocas del Toro or “Mouths of the Bull” after waterfalls shaped like bull mouths, or a large rock on Bastimentos Island in the shape of a sleeping bull, while others attribute the name to one of the last great indigenous chiefs, or the roaring sound of the surf.
The town of Bocas del Toro on Colon was founded in 1826 and soon after became a boomtown with wide streets and large wooden houses due to the United Fruit Company with its famous brand of Chiquita Bananas. In its heyday, there were five consulates, three newspapers, a bottling plant and the first lottery in Panama. Coconuts, turtle shells, sarsaparilla and cocoa beans were exported along with bananas. Spanish is the official language of Panama, but English is widely spoken here due to recent influences, and also older generations of settlers from Jamaica that came to work the plantations and their descendants. There are approximately 10,000 residents in the area. Six of the nine islands are inhabited with Colon having the most people, approximately 5,000, followed by Bastimentos, Solarte, Cristobal, Popa, and Cayo Agua. Due to the United Fruit Company, the older architecture of Bocas has a Colonial feel, with bright Caribbean notes of color.
You will find an intriguing mix of cultures, with a salty, rustic edge. You will see backpackers, naturalists, surfers, ex-pats and the like along with the colorful locals. The restaurants are diverse and plentiful in Bocas town, with the most night-life available. The Om Cafe serves a yummy breakfast and tasty Indian food. The Casbah is a unique intimate dining experience. The new and upscale Latitude 9 has a wonderful spot on the water with fresh modern cuisine and a full bar with decent wine offerings. Lemon Grass is fun for Thai with a Caribbean twist. Just outside of town, on the way to Playa Tortuga, is Guari Guari restaurant. This is a favorite run by a talented couple serving a nightly fixed six course meal (thanks Ossi!) with innovative use of local fresh ingredients. The areas outside Bocas town, and the more remote islands, offer more of an “off the beaten track” experience. For lodging there is quite a bit to choose from: hostels, bed and breakfasts, eco-lodges, etc. If you are young and single, Bocas Town would be the likely place to stay. A good choice would be the Hotel Bocas del Toro and its charming balconies and central location on the water. For a beautiful, remote, eco-experience try Al Natural or Tranquilo Bay on the far side of Bastimentos. For a romantic and elegant bungalow experience, there is the charming Eclipse de Mar on the Bocas town side of Bastimentos. Eclipse is nice because you have an intimate experience, yet you are minutes from the relative action of Bocas by water taxi. If you have a family with a range of ages, I find the most convenient and entertaining is the Hotel Playa Tortuga with its large pool, private beach, and restaurant. The included activities include kayaking, volleyball and ping pong and only a 10 minute cab ride to Bocas town. There is a private boat dock for pick-up and drop-off for the local tours by boat.
This unique archipelago is truly blessed by nature. The region is part of a much larger protected area, La Amistad, crossing into Costa Rica and spanning some 2.5 million hectares. Its dense biodiversity and pristine state have made it a UNESCO World Heritage Site Biosphere Reserve. The Atlantic and Pacific oceans were divided by the Isthmus of Panama about three million years ago, creating a superb “natural experiment” in evolution. The result is an abundance of flora and fauna and unique relationships with species from these two very different oceans. The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (STRI) has a marine laboratory research station just outside of Bocas, which is a center for research, education and scientific training. Tourists, students, and scientists may visit for guided tours, workshops and the like. For more information check out http://www.stri.org/english/research/facilities/marine/bocas_del_toro/index.php STRI has marine laboratories on both coasts of Panama, including this new Caribbean laboratory at Bocas del Toro, and a modern research vessel, giving access to two very different oceans that are only 80 km apart. This natural abundance is why snorkeling, diving, birdwatching, and other naturalist tours are especially wonderful in this area.
The local activities are plentiful and include: scuba, snorkeling, kayaking, sailing, deep-sea and bay fishing, water skiing, jet skiing, horseback riding and surfing. Most of the local attraction tours are available from any area lodging. Visit an indigenous village, butterfly farm, or an organic cocoa plantation. Snorkel or dive at Hospital Point, Crawl Cay, Zapatilla, or Starfish Beach. Explore Bird Island and have lunch on the beach at Bocas del Drago. No matter where you stay, or which activities you choose, you will be surrounded by incredible natural beauty, friendly laid-back people, and have an experience that is truly distinctive.
Ossi Guari-Guari
March 6, 2010 at 4:30 pm
The Guari-Guari does six courses, not four
.
The owner
lkhajavi
March 15, 2010 at 12:35 pm
Hi Ossi!
Thanks for your post! I made the correction. We are going to be in Bocas soon and we’ll be joining you again for sure! Best,
Lisa
Lisa Khajavi
March 27, 2010 at 5:21 pm
Hi Ossi!
Please book us for Monday night at 7:00 pm March 29 for 5 people.
3 adults, 2 kids 7 and 10 under Khajavi Family. We will be at Hotel La Coralina. See you soon!
Thanks,
Lisa Khajavi
Dillon Baroni
April 28, 2010 at 8:58 am
Our family is considering a summer vacation probably in July of 7 – 10 days to Costa Rica. Since my 15 year old son and I are fair skin complexion, we will probably avoid the beaches and spend most of our time in the mountains, rain forest, and visiting San Jose and other central valley towns. Now I’ve read that the rainy season starts in May or so….and continues to about November. We can tolerate a little rain during the day…but our concern is that perhaps it will be TOO much rain. Should we wait and visit during the drier season to get better better weather since most of our time will be outside?
Trying to Decide
May 3, 2010 at 7:15 am
I am trying to decide where to stay. We are currently debating between Los Pinos Cabanas and Hotel Finca Valverde. Based on the reviews here on tripadvisor, Los Pinos sounds good. But we will not have a car, and i am worried about where we are going to get food. We have an 7:30am tour of the forest and I don’t know where we are going to get breakfast. I am also thinking about Hotel Finca Valverde, because they have a restaurant…but I am conerned about the noise from the bar that people are compaining about. ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!
Lisa Khajavi
May 4, 2010 at 8:05 pm
Hi! Lisa Khajavi here…. Just 100 meters from Los Pinos Cabanas is a small restaurant called Atmósfera that opens at 7:00 am and serves breakfast.
If you think that is too much of a push to make your 7:30 am tour, then you could pick up some breakfast items the previous day at local supermarkets
or bakeries 1 km away in Santa Elena. Depending on when and how you arrive, you can also coordinate a grocery shop on your way before checking in.
Los Pinos has equipped kitchens with microwaves,gas stoves and refrigerators so you can do simple Continental or whip up an omelette or something which
is not a bad idea if your tour involves some hiking! Los Pinos is 1km outside of Santa Elena on the main road to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve.
Fonda Vela is 3 km outside of Santa Elena on the same road to the Monteverde Cloud Forest. I prefer to be closer to Santa Elena as it tends to be less crowded.
If you really prefer to have lodging with restaurant options, then Fonda Vela is okor you could check out El Sapo Dorado, also just 1km outside of Santa Elena or
Las Orquideas a B&B in central Santa Elena. In any case, don’t miss the charming Sofia’s Restaurant which is on the same road as Los Pinos and El Sapo in a
stretch called Cerro Plano and has yummy eclectic cuisine. Any of these places have a rustic-eco flair which is what this area is all about. Both Los Pinos and Fonda
Vela have gardens and trails, and Los Pinos even has a hydroponic greenhouse with beautiful produce which guests are encouraged to help themselves to.
Hope this helps! Have a fabulous trip. Pura Vida!
Lisa Khajavi
May 4, 2010 at 9:06 pm
Hi Dillon! Lisa Khajavi here….It totally depends on your family and your mind set and tolerance of the elements. If you are looking to save some money, like to avoid crowds,
and want to see Costa Rica at its most lush and green, then it is a wonderful time to visit. Getting from place to place is a little more challenging as well, but if you are
in the mood for adventure and come prepared for the logistics of rain, it can be wonderful. However, since you won’t be focusing on the beaches, and July is typically very
wet, you may want to come sooner in June or wait for Christmastime in December. The greens are still intense from November (the end of rainy season), but the sun is
abundant which makes getting around and outdoor activities much easier. In dry season, with 7 to 10 days you can also do 3 destinations more comfortably.
Rainy season can be fun or a big bother depending on your mindset! Once with family and friends, with ages ranging from 6 years to 65 years plus several teenagers,
we went hiking in the cloud forest outside of Villa Blanca. It was rainy season and we got caught in quite a downpour. We made it back to the lodge, slipping and sliding,
giggling and some fussing, completely drenched. We all huddled by the fireplace with hot chocolate and smiles, some sheer grins of relief, but I have to say in retrospect
it was a fun, memorable, bonding experience. A hot bath never felt so good and dinner conversation was lively and giddy.
Rainy season is May to November, with the most amount of rainfall usually in July and November. If you decide on rainy season it is essential to be prepared with changes
of clothing, plenty of socks, hooded rain poncho, plastic bags for wet or damp clothing, and two pair of rugged cross trainers or hiking boots so you can alternate for your outdoor
activities. Plus, it is rarely non-stop rain. There are usually long breaks between the showers, although in July the showers are longer.
Whatever you decide, Costa Rica is an amazing country for family vacations any time of year! Hope this helps and Pura Vida!
Marjory
May 9, 2010 at 8:40 am
We are thinking of holidaying in Tamarindo. We normally go somewhere in the Caribbean and stay in all-inclusive hotels as it works out better value. Is this the case in Tamarindo or is the food and drink (Im talking alcohol) reasonably priced ? Some examples please. Also, I understand the best time to go weather wise is Jan/Feb. Is that correct ? Cheers.
Green Directory
May 12, 2010 at 4:11 pm
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Lisa Khajavi
May 13, 2010 at 9:12 pm
Panama is beautiful and super easy to visit from Costa Rica. Our flight from San Jose to Bocas is lovely and only 1 hour-super scenic!
Thurman Jeska
May 31, 2010 at 2:56 am
Hi,this is Thurman Jeska,just discovered your web-site on google and i must say this blog is great.may I share some of the writing found in your post to my local friends?i am not sure and what you think?in any case,Thanks!
Blake Urmos
June 1, 2010 at 4:45 pm
Great article. Bocas del Toro is one of my favorite getaways. I have stayed on Isla Colon and Bastimentos. Looks like there will be flights direct to Bocas from NYC, LA and Miami. This should be huge for tourism. Hopefully it will stimulate the growth but not make it an expensive tourist trap.
I am building a community for Bocas del Toro’s online presence. A lot of the hotel and villa owners need help with their websites and gaining some exposure. Right now I am writing short articles on places I want to go and eventually will get some good content once I visit each place.
Lisa Khajavi
June 7, 2010 at 4:02 pm
Hi Thurman,
Thanks for your interest but a link to your site is not beneficial to ours. Best of luck.
Lisa Khajavi
June 11, 2010 at 11:26 pm
Thank you! Maybe someday….
Lisa Khajavi
Lisa Khajavi
June 11, 2010 at 11:33 pm
I also hope the growth doesn’t go too fast. The coral reefs are already changing, among other things.
Lisa Khajavi
June 12, 2010 at 12:36 am
Hi Thurman,
Please do not use any of my content, but feel free to send my blog address to your local friends. http://www.naturevacations.com/blog
Best,
Lisa Khajavi
Lisa Khajavi
June 12, 2010 at 1:05 am
Hi!
The best weather is between December and May, especially for the Pacific side. January and February are very nice and not nearly as crowded as December. The cost of everything depends on the level of
hotel you choose, and the type of bar/restaurant/market you choose. All inclusives usually are a pretty good value, and in many places a necessity due to being so remote and lacking other easy dining options.
That is not the case for Tamarindo. You may find many reasonable options for alcohol everywhere. Costa Rican beer: Imperial, Bavaria, Pilsen, etc. and local rum, etc. If you want premium brands, it is always
more, anything imported is heavily taxed in Costa Rica. As far as restaurants, to economize go where the locals go for “comida tipica”. Tamarindo beaches and surrounding towns are great. Pura Vida!
Lisa Khajavi
June 12, 2010 at 1:21 am
Thank you for the compliment. Best of luck for your new website.
Bonnie Manzanero
June 12, 2010 at 7:34 am
The blog was absolutely fantastic! Lots of great information and inspiration, both of which we all need!
Lisa Khajavi
June 14, 2010 at 7:49 pm
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks. Travel inspires me without a doubt!
Lisa Khajavi
Ginter
June 26, 2010 at 7:36 pm
Hello, I really admire the layout of your site. What theme are you using?
Lisa Khajavi
June 26, 2010 at 8:14 pm
Hi Ginter,
Check out Word Press, there are tons to choose from.
Best,
Lisa Khajavi
Kempinski
July 7, 2010 at 10:40 am
Super post – and great domain by the way:-)
Tom
July 7, 2010 at 8:11 pm
Great site. A lot of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends!
Lisa Khajavi
July 7, 2010 at 10:02 pm
Hi Tom,
Costa Rica and Bocas are so beautiful. September-October is a great time to visit Bocas-great diving conditions and a break from the rainiest part of Costa Rica’s green season.
Pura Vida!
Lisa Khajavi
Lisa Khajavi
July 7, 2010 at 10:22 pm
Hi Kempinski,
I am so glad I have come to know Bocas. It is a true natural wonder.
Happy Travels!
Lisa Khajavi
Robyn Schlimmer
July 11, 2010 at 12:22 pm
Great stuff. Thanks for this.
Lisa Khajavi
July 11, 2010 at 2:54 pm
Thanks and pura vida!
Lisa Khajavi