From Cahuita to Manzanillo

by Lisa Khajavi

Costa Rica’s Caribbean coastline within the Limon province stretches from Barra del Colorado in the north bordering Nicaragua,  to the tiny town of Sixaola in the south bordering Panama.  Barra del Colorado is famous for world-class tarpon and snook fishing, and nearby Tortuguero for the magical turtle nesting season.  The estuaries, parks and refuges in both of these places are amazing for anyone interested in wildlife viewing.  Tiny Sixaola is really not noteworthy unless you plan to brave the rickety border crossing into Panama.  However for an amazing beach and jungle experience, I am going to focus on the area covering Cahuita to Manzanillo where the stunning coconut lined beaches, hypnotic calypso, relaxing reggae and spicy creole cooking all come together for an overall experience you won’t find anywhere else in Costa Rica.

This area truly developed a culture and rhythm all its own.  The feel is Afro-Caribbean with Jamaican flair, coming from the culture brought into the area in the late 1870’s.  The building of the railroad and the boom of the banana industry brought workers from Jamaica and other Caribbean islands who then settled here.  They and their descendants established fishing and farming communities all along the coast and the colorful influences reflected in wonderful food, music and language are alive and well today.  Savor creamy coconut rice with lobster or  Jamaican Rondon (Rundown) stew with local red snapper, fresh coconut milk, plantain, breadfruit and the vibrant scotch bonnet pepper-so tantalizing!  Calypso legend Walter Ferguson lives in the area, and reggae beats can be heard all around.  Additionally, you will find the indigenous Bri Bri, Cabecar and Kekoldi tribes keeping their traditions alive in the reserves of the nearby Talamanca Mountains.  There are other indigenous reserves in Costa Rica, but in this area the culture is more intact because of its remote location, away from the hustle and bustle of the Central Valley and widespread development of the Pacific beaches.  One of my favorite finds in this area is the organic and sustainable cacao bean production, from which high grade chocolate is made.  One of the local Bri Bri families outside of Puerto Viejo near the village of Bambu hosts unforgettable agrotourism experiences on their rustic plantation.  The Jamaican-Creole roots, combined with the local indigenous heritage is quite a contrast to the rest of  Costa Rica which has so many with Spanish descent, and so many international influences blended into daily life.

I need to start by mentioning Limon because it is the capital of the entire province and the gateway to the Southern Caribbean Coast.    An important port for commerce and cruise ships, it was just off the coast here, near Uvita Island where Christopher Colombus anchored in 1502 on his fourth and final voyage to the New World. It was Columbus who first named this Costa Rica or “Rich Coast”.  Despite having been found first, for centuries this region lived in absolute obscurity and separation from the rest of the country.  As mentioned before, it wasn’t until the 1870´s when the railroad was being built that the first non-indigenous could be found in the area.   It is this separation that makes this area so distinctly different from all other regions in Costa Rica.  I don’t recommend staying in Limon as the feel is a little industrial and doesn’t express the charm and beauty of going south.  I would recommend to stop and do a quick historical tour on your way through, or to fly in, as the flying time from San Jose to Limon is only 40 minutes and is beautiful.  The main villages or towns of interest to the south are Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, and Manzanillo, dotted in between with gorgeous white and black sand beaches lined gracefully with arching palms.

Just south of Cahuita approaching Puerto Vargas is Cahuita National Park, just 43 km south of Limon.  Created in 1970 to protect Costa Rica’s biggest coral reef, it encompasses a land area of just 1,067 hectares and protects over 22,400 hectares of ocean and marine life.  The best time to visit Cahuita National Park is during the months of March, April, September and October, as it rains less during these months.  These months are also great for all of this area, as Holy Easter Week in March/April can be a zoo and very crowded in the rest of the country.  In the driest months of  this region of September and October, the area provides much needed relief from the heaviest part of rainy season for the rest of Costa Rica offering sparkling sun and great conditions for beach time or any outdoor activities.  Although the Cahuita coral reef was badly damaged during an earthquake in 1991, it still includes over 35 species of coral including brain, elk horn and fan coral, and is a must see when in the area. Another popular attraction of this park is an 18th century shipwreck that lies at the mouth of the Perezoso River. The town of Cahuita is very laid-back, with charming accommodations and restaurants in a setting that is great to take walks, bicycle and really relax.   There is a well maintained butterfly farm nearby,  and you may find shops and tours to go snorkeling, diving and sport fishing if you like.  Do not miss the sloth rescue center, which is part of Aviarios del Caribe, 3 miles north of Cahuita.  These rescued and rehabilitated creatures are re-introduced to the wild when possible, and the others remain at the center-they will absolutely steal your heart!

Next, south of Cahuita is the lively Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, or just Puerto Viejo, not to be confused with Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui inland in the province of Heredia.  Puerto Viejo has a generally young crowd, bustling with surfers, backpackers, international travelers and the like.  The town has many bars, restaurants, and discos with live music to be heard well into the night.  If you are looking for remote peace and quiet it is best to stay in a neighboring community.  The famous surf spot ‘Salsa Brava’ boasts waves that can reach 40 feet high, strong rip tides, and many war and survival stories of broken surf boards and harrowing conditions.  This beach is for expert surfers and is not recommended for swimming.   There is a wide range of accommodations both in and outside of town, and they vary in price and style.  Do not miss La Pecora Nera (The Black Sheep) restaurant, with its delicious Italian cuisine served up with healthy doses of flair and enthusiasm by gregarious owner Iliaro Gianonni.  Be prepared for a leisurely pace for the evening with attentive service;  this is a ‘must experience’ in Puerto Viejo.  A short walk from Playa Cocles in the forest, away from the hum, is the stunning and brand new Le Cameleon.  This is one of the most unique new hotels in Costa Rica, and will transform you with light and color each day and tantalize the taste buds at the innovative Le Namu restaurant.  Tres chic!

Farther south still, is the relaxed fishing village of Manzanillo, which is within the Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge.  This refuge is unique and has mangrove swamp, wetland, beach, coral reef, and a lowland rain forest that is unique in the region.  The feeling is relaxed and natural with few tourists compared to Puerto Viejo.  The white sand beaches are lovely and calming.  The advantage to all three of these towns is that all of the local sights and activities can be enjoyed easily no matter where you choose your accommodations.  If you want to really relax and unwind, then Cahuita or Manzanillo areas would be great.  For an active night scene and younger crowd mixing it up, then Puerto Viejo would work well.  You will find so many reasons to love and enjoy the Southern Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica:   lush, unique flora and fauna, great seafood, cultural activities, diving, snorkeling, surfing, fishing- the list goes on!  Don’t forget Carnaval the second week of October- this bustling celebration has become one of the liveliest festivals in all of Central America.  It is a great time, with the whole Caribbean Coast reverberating with the sights, sounds and beats of this rich Caribbean culture.

Costa Rica Southern Caribbean Vacation
From Cahuita to Manzanillo

by Lisa Khajavi