Bocas del Toro, Panama Vacation
March 2nd, 2010Archipelago of Natural Wonders
by Lisa Khajavi
One of the many advantages of Costa Rica being a small country is the ability to visit Nicaragua and Panama very easily. One of my favorite getaways is to Bocas del Toro, Panama. It is a beautiful, one hour flight from San Jose during which you see many sights; including the recently awakened Turrialba Volcano, coffee plantations, pineapple fields, mangroves and many stunning features. Not long after passing the winding waterways of the border town of Changuinola, you will descend into the town of Bocas del Toro with its cheerfully painted Caribbean-style structures perched on the water. This mellow town is on the island of Colon, which is part of a stunning archipelago made up of 9 islands, 52 keys and some 200 tiny islets. Welcome to Bocas del Toro!
The history of Bocas del Toro is very interesting, and is reflected in a current eclectic mix of inhabitants. Some of the original locals were the Bakota, Guyami, Bri-Bri and Ngobe indians. You will still see elegant “cayucos”, which are kayaks carved from a single tree-trunk used to this day to fish and get about. There are many local crafts available, as well as colorful molas done by the Kuna women from San Blaas and the finely woven baskets made in the Embera or Wounan tradition.
On his fourth and last voyage, Christopher Columbus arrived to the archipelago on October 6, 1502. His storm-beaten ships took advantage of the calm waters, and consequently these islands he discovered became supply and repair stations for shipping. No hurricanes reach the shores here, so it is a safe haven for boats from rough seas. The largest main island of Colon is named after Columbus, as the famous explorer’s name is actually Cristobal Colon in Spanish. Bastimentos, another key island here, translates to “supplies” and another neighboring island, Carenero means “careening” which refers to a ship tilting to the side. A couple of stories claim Columbus named the archipelago Bocas del Toro or “Mouths of the Bull” after waterfalls shaped like bull mouths, or a large rock on Bastimentos Island in the shape of a sleeping bull, while others attribute the name to one of the last great indigenous chiefs, or the roaring sound of the surf. The town of Bocas del Toro on Colon was founded in 1826 and soon after became a boomtown with wide streets and large wooden houses due to the United Fruit Company with its famous brand of Chiquita Bananas. In its heyday, there were five consulates, three newspapers, a bottling plant and the first lottery in Panama. Coconuts, turtle shells, sarsaparilla and cocoa beans were exported along with bananas. Spanish is the official language of Panama, but English is widely spoken here due to recent influences, and also older generations of settlers from Jamaica that came to work the plantations and their descendants. There are approximately 10,000 residents in the area. Six of the nine islands are inhabited with Colon having the most people, approximately 5,000, followed by Bastimentos, Solarte, Cristobal, Popa, and Cayo Agua. Due to the United Fruit Company, the older architecture of Bocas has a Colonial feel, with bright Caribbean notes of color.
You will find an intriguing mix of cultures, with a salty, rustic edge. You will see backpackers, naturalists, surfers, ex-pats and the like along with the colorful locals. The restaurants are diverse and plentiful in Bocas town, with the most night-life available. The Om Cafe serves a yummy breakfast and tasty Indian food. The Casbah is a unique intimate dining experience. The new and upscale Latitude 9 has a wonderful spot on the water with fresh modern cuisine and a full bar with decent wine offerings. Lemon Grass is fun for Thai with a Caribbean twist. Just outside of town, on the way to Playa Tortuga, is Guari Guari restaurant. This is a favorite run by a talented couple serving a nightly fixed four course meal with innovative use of local fresh ingredients. The areas outside Bocas town, and the more remote islands, offer more of an “off the beaten track” experience. For lodging there is quite a bit to choose from: hostels, bed and breakfasts, eco-lodges, etc. If you are young and single, Bocas Town would be the likely place to stay. A good choice would be the Hotel Bocas del Toro and its charming balconies and central location on the water. For a beautiful, remote, eco-experience try Al Natural or Tranquilo Bay on the far side of Bastimentos. For a romantic and elegant bungalow experience, there is the charming Eclipse de Mar on the Bocas town side of Bastimentos. Eclipse is nice because you have an intimate experience, yet you are minutes from the relative action of Bocas by water taxi. If you have a family with a range of ages, I find the most convenient and entertaining is the Hotel Playa Tortuga with its large pool, private beach, and restaurant. The included activities include kayaking, volleyball and ping pong and only a 10 minute cab ride to Bocas town. There is a private boat dock for pick-up and drop-off for the local tours by boat.
This unique archipelago is truly blessed by nature. The region is part of a much larger protected area, La Amistad, crossing into Costa Rica and spanning some 2.5 million hectares. Its dense biodiversity and pristine state have made it a UNESCO World Heritage Site Biosphere Reserve. The Atlantic and Pacific oceans were divided by the Isthmus of Panama about three million years ago, creating a superb “natural experiment” in evolution. The result is an abundance of flora and fauna and unique relationships with species from these two very different oceans. The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (STRI) has a marine laboratory research station just outside of Bocas, which is a center for research, education and scientific training. Tourists, students, and scientists may visit for guided tours, workshops and the like. For more information check out http://www.stri.org/english/research/facilities/marine/bocas_del_toro/index.php STRI has marine laboratories on both coasts of Panama, including this new Caribbean laboratory at Bocas del Toro, and a modern research vessel, giving access to two very different oceans that are only 80 km apart. This natural abundance is why snorkeling, diving, birdwatching, and other naturalist tours are especially wonderful in this area.
The local activities are plentiful and include: scuba, snorkeling, kayaking, sailing, deep-sea and bay fishing, water skiing, jet skiing, horseback riding and surfing. Most of the local attraction tours are available from any area lodging. Visit an indigenous village, butterfly farm, or an organic cocoa plantation. Snorkel or dive at Hospital Point, Crawl Cay, Zapatilla, or Starfish Beach. Explore Bird Island and have lunch on the beach at Bocas del Drago. No matter where you stay, or which activities you choose, you will be surrounded by incredible natural beauty, friendly laid-back people, and have an experience that is truly distinctive.
Bocas del Toro, Panama Vacation
Archipelago of Natural Wonders
by Lisa Khajavi














































